Best Climbing Helmets – Expert Review (2020)
One of the best qualities about climbing is its thrill – the danger that comes with ascending a rock face.
But that same thrill isn’t so much fun when the danger catches up to you and you aren’t protected, which is why it is so important to be correctly equipped.
A climbing helmet is the first thing to invest in, and hope our list of the best climbing helmets available today will help you get the right one for you.
See our section on Climbing for more relevant equipment.
Best Climbing Helmets (Top Picks)
Best Overall
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Best Value
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Best Lightweight
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Top Helmets For Climbing (Detailed Reviews)
We reviewed over 8 climbing helmets for this article. Below are the best climbing helmets that made our short list.
- Mammut Wall Rider MIPS - Best Overall
- Black Diamond Half Dome - Best Value
- Petzl Sirocco - Best Lightweight
- Black Diamond Vector
- Black Diamond Vapor
Read our complete buyers guide for climbing helmets.
1. Best Overall Helmet
Mammut Wall Rider MIPS
Mammut Wall Rider is the first climbing helmet to have MIPS – the Multi-directional Impact Protection System – which offers the ultimate protection from impact force.
This system is a low-friction, slip-plane layer that can rotate independently around the wearer’s head. When you get hit on the side of your head a large percentage of the impact force, which would otherwise have been absorbed by your head, is therefore deflected by the MIPS.
The soft EPP core and hard shell combine to protect the side of the wearer’s head from falling rocks or a fall onto a rock.
This hybrid quality is also what makes the helmet so comfortably light.
The helmet is a bit on the pricier side to the extra expense of the MIPS, but this game-changing technology has been scientifically proven to reduce the potential for brain injuries – and that makes it worth every cent.
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Main Features
What we like
What we dislike
Key Takeway
It is the amazing and unique Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS) that made this helmet the overall winner. Mammut Wall Rider is comfortable, light and insanely protective – all you can ask for in a helmet.
2. Best Value Helmet
Black Diamond Half Dome
4/5 Overall Rating
What makes the Half Dome the best-value helmet is that it is less than half the price than most other helmets that with its durability, comfort and lightness.
The Half Dome has been a staple for climbers for ages, but Black Diamond updated their design to be even better. The new model now has more ventilation, more adjustability and a slightly lower profile.
The interior foam lining cushions the head in the front and from above and the harness system holds the helmet firmly in place, while the helmet’s overall shape fits nicely around the head.
The adjustability has a wide enough range that even small heads can wear the large helmets, which makes this helmet great for groups that are sharing one helmet.
The hard plastic shell has proven to be far more durable than most helmets, although it also adds extra weight.
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Main Features
What we like
What we dislike
Key Takeaway
The Black Diamond Half Dome helmet is great for groups, guides and those who are on a budget, but it is not nearly as light or comfortable as other higher-end helmets.
3. Best Lightweight Climbing Helmet
Petzl Sirocco
This insanely lightweight helmet is still capable of responding to climbers need for protection and comfort, making it one of the best-rated helmets.
At 170g, the Petzl Sirocco is almost half the weight of the average helmet. It takes a notable amount of strain off the wearer which makes it extremely comfortable.
Also adding to the comfort, the deeper shape of the helmet is found to be more fitting than shallower models.
The EPP foam and EPS plate combine to provide protection over the top of the head against fallings rocks while also maintaining comfort against the head.
Tied in with the hard-plastic exterior, the Petzl Sirocco is also extremely durable. And this is at no cost to its ventilation – the Sirocco’s large ventilation holes keep the helmet airy and the wearer’s head cool.
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Main Features
What we like
What we dislike
Key Takeaway
The PETZL Sirocco is by far the lightest and one of the most comfortable and enjoyable climbing helmets to use.
4. Best Helmet for Comfort
Black Diamond Vector
The Black Diamond Vector is a light helmet designed for long routes, alpine climbs and weight-sensitive missions. It is made to feel like the helmet is barely there, making it the most comfortable climbing helmet.
The helmet is made of geometric, co-moulded, lightweight EPS foam with a thin polycarbonate shell. This provides full-coverage protection while keeping light and comfortable; you can even bang this helmet multiple times before you will see any dents.
A webbing harness and plastic adjustment band allow a wide range of adjustment, creating a snug fit with no/minimal slippage.
With more than enough ventilation ports, many wearers claim that it is so cooling and lightweight that they forget they’re even wearing it!
This is great for the hotter days.
And if you’re still climbing when the sun sets, the Vector’s dependable in-mould headlamp clips ensure that your headlamp won’t fall off.
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Main Features
What we like
What we dislike
Key Takeaway
It’s so comfortable, you will almost forget you’re wearing the Black Diamond Vector, plus the ventilation makes it great for the warmer climbing days.
5. Best Helmet for Bigger Sizes
Black Diamond Vapor
Most climbing helmets only cater to heads with a maximum measurement of 61cm, making it hard for those with larger heads to find nice protection.
Fear not - the Vapor
is an amazing helmet that can cater to up to 63cm.
This helmet is very similar to the Black Diamond’s Vector, with the advantage of being slightly lighter and the shell has a lower profile.
Also inserted between the EPS co-moulded foam there are a series of carbon rods and a sheet of Kevlar.
This reinforcement allows the foam to be slightly thinner, adding optimal strength for minimal weight. The Vapor also has a polycarbonate shell.
Another weight saver is the cutback on an adjustable buckle. Instead, the two straps that come down below your ears are sewn into the chinstrap.
This means you can’t adjust the placement of the position of the straps, which some may have an issue with.
Soft padding along the inner front and top of the helmet makes the Vapor comfortable; on the downside, this is prone to soak up sweat and can’t be removed to clean.
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Main Features
What we like
What we dislike
Key Takeaway
With a very similar construction to the much-loved Vector, the Black Diamond Vapor is a perfect alternative for the bigger headed climbers.
Climbing Helmet - Buyer’s Guide (Key Features)
A climbing helmet’s purpose is to protect the most fragile and important part of your body – your head. With falling rocks and dizzy heights, safer is always better. Therefore, protection is what you ultimately want from a helmet.
With modern designs, however, we also have the luxury of comfort, lightness and other attributes, making the definition of a good helmet exceed only protection. Use this guide to help you find the best helmet.
Helmet Type
There are two main helmet types: hardshell helmets and shelled foam helmets. Hardshell helmets (a.k.a suspension helmets or hybrid helmets) have a thin foam liner and an extra-hard outer shell – usually ABS plastic – with a strap suspension system.
They tend to have a lower price and brilliant durability.
Shelled foam helmets have a thicker layer of polystyrene or polypropylene foam underneath a thin polycarbonate exterior. These helmets absorb impact forces. They are usually lighter and well ventilated.
Helmet Fit
Because the feel of a helmet cannot only be deciphered by its measurement as every head shape are personal, the best way to get a good fit is the old-fashioned way – go into a store and try several different models on.
Begin by placing the helmet onto your head with the front rim straight across your forehead, leaving the chin strap unbuckled. Shake your head from side to side and tilt your head back. A good fitting helmet will remain in place.
Next, close the chin strap. The front and back of the straps should form a “Y” around each of your ears, and there should be no slack.
Lastly, play around with the adjustment system - where the headband can be tightened using a wheel or ‘click-strip’ at the back – and see how it feels.
Keep in mind that if you intend to winter climb, you should make sure your helmet still fits nicely over a beanie as well as a bare head.
Intended Use & Weather Conditions
The activity and climate you wish to venture through should influence your choice of helmet.
If you’re planning to haul a lot of gear around for long periods of time, a shelled foam helmet with low weight and good ventilation is ideal.
For warm weather, opt for a shelled foam model with tons of vents. As for ice climbing, a shelled foam helmet is still suitable, but you won’t need much cooling and you’d want to avoid letting any rain or snow on you - so choose a helmet with less ventilation.
Because you can take your helmet off while waiting your turn to climb or belay on cool weathered, single-pitch sport climbs, you can prioritize durability of a helmet over comfort.
And lastly, for indoor climbing, a cool, lightweight shelled foam helmet is the most logical choice as there are no rockfalls.
Lifespan & Durability
This isn’t so much a buyer’s tip as it is an owner’s tip.
Give up your helmet the moment it is cracked, dented or damaged; even if there are no visible dings, you should get it checked out if you experience any intense impacts.
Make sure to check before any climb that your outer shell is free of major dents, the buckles and hardware are looking in order, the webbing is free from frays and tears and the foam casing is secure.
The helmet is there to protect you, and any damage can reduce its ability to do so.
Even it is never impacted, the sun’s UV rays slowly degrade materials, so it is advisable to retire a helmet within 10 years of use.
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